Local wine aficionado, Greville Havenhand, challenges us to broaden our minds on Valentine’s Day
With signs of an early spring, snowdrops in bloom, a few budding daffodils, a restaurateur’s thoughts lightly turn to St. Valentine’s day and a full till. Almost every one of them in South London is trumpeting its special menu. The feast of a Roman Martyr has become a celebration of Aphrodite, Dionysus and Midas – love, wine and greed. So what do we drink on Valentine’s day?
Custom says Champagne, but why not reduce your carbon footprint and drink English.
“Horror!” You say, “English?”
Well yes. It isn’t generally known that sparkling wine was first made by an Englishman Christopher Merret in 1662, a full thirty year’s before Dom Perignon and seventy before the first Champagne house came into being. The geology of Sussex and parts of Kent is identical to that of the Champagne region of France and enterprising wine growers have planted the classic Champagne grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. They make the wine in the same way and are now beating the French in International competitions. Merret Fitzrovia, made by the Ridgeview winery near Ditchling in Sussex recently was voted best sparkling Rosé in the “Mondial de Rosé” and their “Merret Bloomsbury” won the International Wine and Spirits Competition for the best sparkling wine (they are not allowed to call it Champagne). Their Sussex rivals Nyetimber won the trophy in the “Chardonnay Mondial”.
There is no need to drink fizz, of course. If you are having smoked salmon try Chablis, or better still Fino Sherry. Another regular on the menus is the alleged aphrodisiac, oysters. Champagne and its look-alikes are not perfect with oysters. I prefer the once derided Muscadet. Nowadays those Loire winemakers have entered the modern world and are making zingy, refreshing wines with great fruit.
What about red? Forget Bordeaux and Burgundy or big fat Ausralian Shiraz.
The only thing for St. Valentine must be St Amour.
St Amour is the second smallest of the Beaujolais appellation, bordering on the Burgundy village of St.Veran. The name is nothing to do with love, but never mind. It is named after St. Amateur, a Roman soldier who converted to Christianity and founded a monastery overlooking the River Sâone. Do not be put off by Beaujolais because of the “hangover in a bottle” that is Beaujolais Nouveau. This was a great marketing idea to boost sales, which for a time it did, but completely ruined the reputation of what are some of the most drinkable and affordable wines to come out of France – provided that is the you buy “cru Beaujolais” with the name of village. If that does not appeal why not try a Pinot Noir from New Zealand or a Carmenere from Chile? [Picture: Saint Amour looking towards le Mont Brouilly]
The other February 14th. favourite is chocolate and chocolate desserts. Wine and chocolate are uneasy bedfellows but a good Muscat, such as the excellent Orange Muscats from Australia or my favourite, Muscat-de-Beaumes-de-Venise is a reasonable choice. Some say Champagne but its high acidity clashes with the richness but an Asti Spumante from Italy, with its grapey slight sweetness goes well.
That having been said, drink what you fancy; wine is for pleasure.
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One Comment
A quirky thought perhaps, but have you tried a decent malt whisky with good dark chocolate? Gets my vote over sticky wines any time!