Dulwich on View’s “wine man” Greville Havenhand, discusses wines to go with seasonal game.
Now is the season for game, both furred and feathered. I know that there are those who object to game on ethical grounds but others, like me, love it for its taste and its healthiness – little or no fat and, almost by definition, organic. What is more most game cries out for a good bottle of wine.
Photo: Diana Havenhand
Venison is the game that frightens people least; you can cook it like beef and it is reasonably easy to buy. Some venison is farmed but wild is best – one local butcher sells venison from the Balmoral Estate. Opinion is divided on what to drink with roast venison. I prefer a big red – a Cahors from a good producer like Chateau du Cèdre or even a Châteauneuf du Pape. At a lesser price try a good Argentinian Malbec or a Tannat from Uruguay or a Right Bank Bordeaux such as a St Emilion Grand Cru  from a ripe year like 2003 or 2005. Some people serve venison with fruit sauces with loads of acidity. Be heretical here  and serve a good Riesling.
Furred game such as hare and rabbit are more of a problem. A lot depends on how they are cooked. As a boy in the country it was always deemed “poached” – but that wasn’t the cooking! Jugged hare needs a wine with a lot of flavour – a Ribeiro del Douro from Spain or one of the new Portuguese from the Douro. With saddle of hare I have drunk a good Sicilian Nero d’Avola.
Rabbit is a different story.It may be a white meat but it needs young lively reds with a bit of acid – something from Italy or a Cabernet Franc from one of the new wave Loire producers - a Chinon or a Bourgeuil. Rabbit in cider is popularand I would drink cider with it, but if you must have wine why not a pink – and there are now some good ones on the market. A Spanish Rosada from a top producer would be ideal.
Do not be scared of feathered game - just watch out for shot if you want to avoid a trip to the dentist.
Pheasant is the most common in the shops, and nowadays it is usually eaten young, perhaps too young. I remember when the birds were hung until the body nearly fell of the neck and one really had a rich gamey taste. I believe that some still do this. If you are one of them you should try a great red Rhône such as a Crozes Hermitage. With a younger roast pheasant drink the best red that you can afford – in my book that has to be Burgundy- a Gevrey Chambertin or a Vosne-Romanée, but an Oregon Pinot or a Bordeaux would do nicely.
Partridge favours reds. Again I would go for a Burgundy from the Côte-de-Beaune, possibly a premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune. A Rioja or a Carmenere from Chile suggest themselves.
Woodcock needs a flavourful red without  too much tannin. An Australian Cabernet-Shiraz (without too much oak), would be fine.
What about Wood Pigeon? If it is roast I would go for Portugal again with a Ribatejo. If casseroled try a Côtes-du-Rhône or a Pinot Noir from New Zealand.
Cold Game pie needs a Pinot Noir, or even a Gamay. A hefty Chardonnay would work just as well.
These are suggestions. let your palate and your pocket decide – but enjoy.
Very helpful guidance – I will bear your advice in mind but would have liked to know why eg
a) a Right Bank Bordeaux would be better for venision rather than one from the Left bank
b) “the best red you can afford” to go with a younger roast pheasant should be a Burgundy rather than a Bordeaux or a great Rhone
a) The preponderance of Merlot from the Right Bank tends to give less austere palate. b) Really a question of personal taste, but the younger pheasant is fairly light meat and can be swamped by a bigger Rhone. A Côte de Beaune will be complementary. I also think that an old Burgundy that has taken on meaty and “famyardy” characteristics would go well with well hung, gamey Pheasant.
Greville Havenhand