Walter’s is a fab new restaurant and bar that welcomes both locals and visitors throughout the week, from lunch through to dinner, offering a considered menu of British-inspired classics and an impressive selection of wines and cocktails served at its central bar.
Rob and Matt
Rob Hampton and Matt Lovell, the pair behind Covent Garden’s much-loved seafood bar and kitchen, The Oystermen, are the joint owners of Walter’s. The inspiration for Walter’s came about when Rob, who is a Dulwich local, would walk past the empty Cafe Rouge restaurant on Park Hall Road, West Dulwich. Rob always wondered if the restaurant would ever re-open or if it was closed good - it was indeed permanently closed. Rob suggested the spot to his good friend and business partner Matt, and both set about acquiring the space to open up a local neighbourhood restaurant and bar.
Walter’s was a natural step for Rob and Matt, they wanted to create a spot for people to relax and enjoy great food at any time of day. The restaurant was named Walter’s after Walter Hathaway, a local master milliner and costumier, and first owner of the Park Hall Road address.
Accessed from the street through traditional concertina doors, Walter’s is split into two distinct spaces. The front features the light-filled dining room, which has a traditional feel, with parquet floors, drop-pendant lights hung from high ceilings, exposed brick and an eye-catching, well-stocked central bar. From the bar you pass the open kitchen, and moving towards the back of the restaurant, guests can explore the low lit, cosier space with lounge style seating and tables.
I visited Walter’s on a cold Wednesday evening with my brother. As soon as we entered, we were greeted by the lovely host and shown our table. The atmosphere of the restaurant was just so relaxed and natural, the decor and ambient lighting added a touch of classic elegance. The music playlist was pretty good, playing softly in the background, it worked really well with the restaurant’s vibe.
We also had the delightful opportunity to meet the owners, Rob and Matt, who were very hospitable and welcoming. It was nice to learn more about the creation of Walter’s and how they added personal touches to the restaurant, such as the rope divider wall, which they both worked on together to create. It certainly is a stunning feature.
When we were given the menu by the host, we were also asked if we had any allergies or special dietary requirements with regards to drinks - this was such a nice touch, and I wish more restaurants practised this. Upon looking at the drinks menu, I noticed that wines were a focus for the restaurant and bar, this included a good selection of English wine, sparkling wines and grower champagnes. As we don’t drink alcohol, the barman kindly made us two different types of strawberry mocktails - oh my, it was perhaps the best mocktails we’ve ever had! Now it was time to eat…
For starters we shared the Smoked Cod’s Roe Mousse, Crispy Tortilla, Espelette, my brother ordered the Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, Jerusalem Artichoke Crisps, Chive Oil and I opted for the Tempure & Roasted Cauliflower, Curry Sauce, Lime Labneh. The food was plated so beautifully and the flavours were well balanced and thoughtful.
The smoked Cod’s Roe Mousse was creamy and luscious, the crispy tortillas went really well with the airy mousse. It was addictive.
The Jerusalem soup was bursting with earthy flavours, it was creamy, hearty and comforting.
The cauliflower starter was bursting with texture and flavour on a plate. The curry sauce balanced well with the creatively cooked cauliflowers. I have to admit that we demolished the starters in seven minutes!
For mains, my brother ordered the Squash Orzo Risotto, Slow-Cooked Duck Egg, Pine Nuts, Fried Capers, Crispy Sage and I ordered the Whole Boneless Sea Bass, Brown Shrimp Butter sauce, Sea Herbs and Cucumber. We also ordered a side of Triple Cooked Chips and Walter’s Slaw.
The size of the mains were perfect for a meal and they both packed a serious burst of flavours.
I absolutely love dishes that don’t shy away from the core flavours of the main ingredient. The Sea Bass dish was literally seafood on a plate. The Sea Bass was fresh, tender and flaky, the delectable shrimps took the Sea Bass to the next level and the cucumber added the perfect coolness to the fresh seafood flavours.
The Squash Orzo Risotto was perfectly cooked and very hearty. The soft duck egg added an extra touch of creaminess and the combination of sage and squash made it savoury, a little sweet, and excellent for a cold day.
By this point we were rather full, but we thought to try out a lighter dessert as it was too tempting. So we ordered the Stilton Set cream, Macerated Figs, Pistachio Tuile.
What I loved about this desert was that it had a natural balance of sweetness from the figs and savouriness from the stilton cream. The pistachio tuiles were ridiculously delicious, when you fill it with the creamy Stilton, and macerated figs - which were soft and had a syrupy glaze, you get a combination that feels luxurious and decadent without the heaviness.
Walter’s is a restaurant where the menu is British inspired and focuses on local and seasonal ingredients. The drinks are delightful and refreshing. You can expect to see food presented so beautifully that you’d almost rather not eat it, and when you do, you’re blown away by the amazing textures and flavours bursting from the dishes. However, what did it for me was the service, it was impeccable. I’ve dined in many restaurants and the service here is by far one of the best. Staff were very attentive and extremely hospitable. What more can any diner ask for.
Overall verdict: Excellent.
Walter’s, 84 Park Hall Rd, London, SE21 8BW
Menu: waltersdulwich.co.uk
